Painting an M18 Hellcat (Blitzkrieg Miniatures)


  1. Remove any flash left from the mould
  2. Attach any stowage you want to add to the model
  3. Wash the model in warm soapy water (I use washing up liquid)
  4. Leave to air-dry


With resin vehicles, it is always a good idea to undercoat using a decent primer. For this, I use a cheap grey car primer in a can from Poundland followed by an acrylic primer.

  1. With the spray can, give the model 2 light coverings – be careful not to spray it too think as there will be several layers of paint applied throughout the painting process
  2. Using a dark green acrylic primer (I use Vallejo UK Bronze Green), try to give the entire model a decent coating to give the subsequent layers of acrylic paint something to adhere to and to build up the highlight/modulation colours
  3. Make sure that you give all of the undercoats enough time to dry properly between applications


The aim is to produce a model that looks as though it has been out and about and as a result, there is modulation across the whole of the green base colour.   I don’t try to modulate the colours across panels and from top-to-bottom, rather I try to represent areas of bleaching and wear where the colours will look different to other parts of the tank. To achieve this:

  1. I use Vallejo 71.017 Russia Green and 71.022 Camo green over the dark green undercoat to start to give the tank some modulation in the green colour
  2. To highlight this, I add some 71.045 US Light Green into the mix and spray over raised areas or areas where I think there may have been sun-bleaching or wear
  3. At this point, I always worry that I have gone too light but I try to remember that subsequent stages will darken the colour
  • To prepare for the oil wash (and to blend the colours together) I spray a gloss-coat mixed with some of the dark green undercoat; this mix uses a very small amount of undercoat so as not to overpower the base colours
  • Once the gloss coat is dry, I apply a thinned down mix of dark green and black oil paint across the whole model, paying particular attention to panel lines, grills etc
  • Once the oil wash is completely dry, I use cotton wool buds dampened in thinner to remove the excess oils from the model.  This has the effect of darkening the overall colour and picking out recesses.  You can see from the photographs that it really darkens the overall colour and helps to smooth any transitions between colours


To add chipping and wear and tear, you can use a sponge and a dark grey colour.

  1. Take some sponge, ideally the stuff you get with figures to protect them, and dip it lightly into the paint
  2. Remove the excess and then apply it to the areas where you want to simulate the chipping


  1. Once the model is completely dry, add a thin coat of gloss varnish to the areas where the decals will be applied
  2. Once dry, add a small amount of Microset to the decal area
  3. Add the decals carefully and then brush over with more Microset
  4. Once the Microset has dried, add some Microsol to the decals as this will soften them and help them conform to irregular areas
  5. Once dry, you can add chipping and scratches over the decals to make them appear worn


There are lots of products on the market that can be used to weather and streak a model. I tend to use oil paints. To add streaks:

  1. Using some thinner, dampen a brush and use it to dampen the area you will be working on
  • Add small dots of the colours to the area
  • Using a different brush that is damp with thinner, drag down across the spots of oil paint to leave streaks
  • Repeat this over the entire model (it can take some time)
  • Repeat this process as often as you need to get the desired mount of streaks
  • Allow to fully dry before applying another coat of gloss varnish to seal everything


This is the final stage in the process and is used to make a vehicle look dusty or muddy.

  1. Apply a matte varnish across the model to seal everything
  2. Select the pigments you want to use depending on the theatre of operations. In this case, I used lighter, dustier pigments to simulate a desert environment
  3. on areas such as tracks, I use a good quality PVA as a fixing agent; I apply it liberally over the area
  4. I then add the pigment using a large brush
  5. It is possible to layer the different coloured pigments so that you get an interesting mottled appearance to some areas
  6. Once the pigment is dry, you can spray over with some pigment fixer solution


As with most guides you read, this is my method for this specific model and you may find different methods that work just as well or suit you better.  Painting green armour doesn’t mean that you have to stuck to a boring and plain green colour, nor do you have to create a model with asses of colour modulation.  By experimenting, you can create a nice range of finished from a “fresh from the factory” look to a grizzled veteran that looks like it is ready for the knacker’s yard.

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